For years, MSG’s reputation has been gradually rehabilitated. Once widely criticized for health concerns such as numbness, chest discomfort, and other adverse effects, the additive now enjoys a resurgence of popularity in modern culinary scenes, appearing in craft cocktails, artisanal baked goods, and influencer-led food tours with increasing enthusiasm.
This cultural turnaround isn’t accidental. Ajinomoto, the world’s leading manufacturer of monosodium glutamate, has played a quiet yet persistent role in reshaping public perceptions. Over the past decade, a new wave of Asian American chefs and content creators-highlighted by figures like David Chang during his 2012 TED Talk-have championed MSG, challenging decades of misinformation and xenophobic stereotypes.
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Understanding MSG: Origins and Evolution
Discovered in 1908 by Japanese chemist Kikunae Ikeda from kombu seaweed, monosodium glutamate was celebrated as a scientific marvel-an elegant crystallized form of umami, the fifth fundamental taste. Within a year, Ikeda helped establish Ajinomoto as a commercial enterprise, bringing this flavor enhancer to markets worldwide.
Initially marketed as a culinary revelation, MSG quickly gained popularity across East and Southeast Asia. Restaurants displayed it prominently at tables, and advertisements promoted it as a nutritious, sophisticated ingredient essential for traditional home cooking.
In the United States, MSG’s entry into mainstream cuisine occurred after World War II, when American soldiers returning from Japan noted that Japanese rations tasted superior-partly due to the use of MSG. This seasoning soon found its way into American kitchens, becoming a staple in processed foods and convenience meals by the late 1940s.
The Shift from Miracle Ingredient to Cultural Scapegoat
By the 1950s, MSG had become a common component in mass-produced foods-canned soups, frozen dinners, and fast-food staples-integral to the convenience food boom. However, this popularity was soon overshadowed by controversy. In 1968, Dr. Robert Ho Man Kwok, a Chinese American physician, wrote a letter to the New England Journal of Medicine, describing symptoms like numbness and weakness after dining at Chinese restaurants. He suggested MSG might be a culprit, alongside other ingredients like soy sauce and salt.
Following this, many diners reported similar experiences, leading to the coining of “Chinese Restaurant Syndrome.” A year later, a controversial paper in Science lent scientific credibility to these claims, despite widespread skepticism from the scientific community. As a result, restaurants began displaying “No MSG” signs, and the U.S. government even considered restrictions on its use.
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Scientific Rebuttal: Is MSG Harmful?
Extensive research over the past several decades has failed to establish a definitive link between MSG consumption and adverse health effects. Major health organizations-including the U.S. Food and Drug Administration (FDA), the World Health Organization (WHO), and the European Food Safety Authority (EFSA)-have all concluded that MSG is safe when consumed within typical dietary limits. A 1995 FDA report explicitly stated that there was no evidence to support claims of neurotoxicity at normal intake levels.
“All leading public health agencies have reviewed the evidence,” explains Tia Rains, Vice President of Science at Ajinomoto. “When used as a seasoning, MSG does not pose health risks to the general population, although excessive consumption could be problematic.”
In recent years, Ajinomoto has invested in scientific outreach, collaborating with researchers and influencers to dispel myths surrounding MSG’s safety. They’ve also actively challenged misinformation campaigns. For example, in 2022, Ajinomoto filed a complaint with Brazil’s National Council for Advertising Self-Regulation (CONAR), contesting a Burger King ad that implied MSG was harmful. Although the complaint was initially upheld, the decision was later overturned, with the agency ruling that negative associations with MSG were subjective and protected as free speech.
The Scientific and Cultural Foundations of Umami
The journey toward MSG’s acceptance predates recent campaigns. In the 1980s, scientists launched efforts to legitimize umami as a fundamental taste, led by Kumiko Ninomiya, a biochemist affectionately known as the “Umami Mama.” Her mission was to demonstrate that umami wasn’t merely a flavor but a distinct taste receptor, comparable to sweet, salty, sour, and bitter.
Under her leadership, Ajinomoto established the Umami Information Center, hosting international symposiums that brought together scientists to explore the sensory science behind umami. The breakthrough came in the early 2000s when researchers identified specific glutamate receptors on the tongue, confirming umami as a genuine taste modality. This discovery repositioned MSG from a mere additive to a natural, elemental component of flavor.
Ajinomoto played a pivotal role in disseminating these scientific findings, emphasizing that umami is a core aspect of human taste perception and that MSG is simply a purified form of a naturally occurring amino acid.
Reclaiming MSG’s Culinary Significance
Today, scientific validation has fueled a broader cultural renaissance around MSG. It’s no longer viewed solely as a controversial additive but as a vital ingredient that enhances flavor and satisfaction. Chefs, food creators, and dietitians now celebrate MSG’s ability to deepen umami, reduce sodium content, and elevate dishes to new heights.
For many culinary professionals, MSG’s role is akin to that of salt or sugar-an essential tool in the kitchen. “My goal is to help people develop a healthy relationship with flavorful food,” says Kathleen Benson, a registered dietitian from El Paso, Texas. “Umami is crucial for that sense of satisfaction, and MSG is one of the tools we can use to achieve it.”
This shift is especially evident among a new generation of Asian American chefs and food enthusiasts who are proudly reclaiming MSG as a cultural symbol. For instance, cookbook author Kat Lieu, known for her innovative Asian-inspired baked goods-like fish sauce chocolate chip cookies with bourbon-uses MSG to balance bold flavors. “If a dish has too much fish sauce, it can become overpowering,” she explains. “Adding a touch of MSG elevates everything, making it more harmonious.”
Similarly, Brooklyn-based chef Calvin Eng, owner of the Cantonese American restaurant Bonnie’s, considers MSG a kitchen staple. “Like salt and sugar, I always keep it within reach,” he says. “It’s not just an enhancer; it’s part of my culinary identity.”
Eng’s cookbook, Salt Sugar MSG, prominently features the ingredient, reflecting its integral role in his cooking. “I was initially worried that including MSG would hurt sales,” he admits. “But the response has been overwhelmingly positive, and it’s become a defining feature of my cuisine.”
For others, embracing MSG involves unlearning long-held stigmas. Jenn Ko, co-founder of the playful MSG brand Dime, recalls growing up with the belief that MSG was harmful. “My family always sought restaurants that advertised ‘No MSG,'” she says. Her perspective shifted after discovering that MSG’s vilification was rooted in racial bias and misinformation. “When I looked into its history, I realized how unfairly it was demonized from the start,” she adds.
Ko, Eng, and Lieu are part of a broader movement among Asian Americans to reclaim MSG as a symbol of cultural pride. In 2024, Lieu and Eng signed an open letter initiated by Ajinomoto urging the New England Journal of Medicine to reconsider the term “Chinese Restaurant Syndrome” and its role in perpetuating racial stereotypes. The journal has yet to respond.
For Lieu, much of the stigma around MSG boils down to perception. “It’s just three letters,” she notes. “People assume it’s a dangerous chemical, but in reality, all food contains chemicals. It’s time to move past the racist narrative that labels MSG as a toxin.”
