Last December, designer Adam Lippes embarked on a journey to Japan, exploring the vibrant streets of Tokyo, the historic serenity of Kyoto, and experiencing the traditional hospitality of a ryokan in Shuzenji. His impressions of Japan’s relentless pursuit of aesthetic excellence and cultural refinement continue to influence his creative vision. For Lippes, this trip marked a pivotal moment, much like his previous inspiration from a sojourn in Sicily, which sparked his pre-fall collection. Naturally, Japan’s rich heritage and modern elegance served as the foundation for this latest collection.
Inspiration Drawn from Japanese Art and Culture
One standout piece, a shirt dress featuring a geometric mosaic print in hues of navy, chocolate, gold, plum, and persimmon, pays homage to Robert Motherwell’s Lyric Suite. This series of 600 ink paintings, created on rice paper rather than traditional canvas, imparts a sense of effortless translucency and relaxed sophistication. The influence of Japanese aesthetics is subtly woven throughout the collection-balloon pants reminiscent of traditional workwear, with their voluminous silhouette, and wrap shirts with loose sleeves echoing the flowing lines of a yukata, a casual summer kimono. Additionally, a floral print inspired by a lacquered Meiji-era box adds a touch of historical elegance.
Universal Appeal of Japanese-Inspired Designs
However, you don’t need to be a Japanophile to appreciate these garments. For instance, a lacquered wool trench coat in a deep burgundy exudes a luxurious sheen, while a brushed mohair jacket with a boxy silhouette offers a cozy yet refined look. Lippes emphasizes that once you experience his luxurious double-faced merino sweat suits, traditional cotton athletic wear will seem outdated. “It’s inherently sporty and less formal,” he explains, browsing through racks during a photoshoot. “We’re shifting away from classic dress codes toward separates-more versatile and contemporary. While a sheath dress is simple to produce, it now needs to feature more intriguing shapes to stay relevant.”
Day and Night Wear with a Modern Twist
The collection’s evening wear is just as innovative. A silk and lurex bandeau top paired with a sleek, slim-line skirt feels almost weightless, embodying effortless elegance. A straightforward V-neck dress, designed with a single seam using a traditional Japanese pattern-making technique, drapes gracefully over the body. Lippes also introduces a crinkled silk and steel tank dress-an intentionally unpressed piece that exudes relaxed sophistication. “It’s a little bit daring for me,” he admits, smiling, “but the result is unexpectedly charming and perfect for those seeking understated luxury.”
