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Unless you’re living completely disconnected from the digital world, you’ve likely observed the skyrocketing popularity of Labubu. Even in real life, it’s nearly impossible to stroll through major urban centers without encountering a purse or accessory adorned with these distinctive fang-toothed creatures.
Personally, I find her utterly charming. Despite her gender-fluid aesthetic and ambiguous appeal, Labubu is undeniably a female character. Created by Hong Kong-born artist Kasing Lung, Labubu first appeared in 2015 as part of a mythic series called The Monsters. By 2019, she had transitioned into the collectible toy scene through a collaboration with Chinese retailer Pop Mart, which launched a line of figurines that quickly gained popularity. These collectibles soon expanded into plush toys and keychains-timely, given the surge in popularity of trinkets, discover charms, and small toys. The debut Labubu keyring series, dubbed the “Keen Macaron,” was released in October 2023, marking her entry into the accessory market.
Drawing inspiration from Nordic folklore, Labubu’s pastel-hued, fluffy form combined with her subtly mischievous facial expressions-each variation adding a new layer of personality-strike a perfect balance between adorable and unsettling. She joins an illustrious roster of Asian icons like Hello Kitty, Sonny Angel, and Gudetama. Pop Mart’s ongoing “Story Baby” series seems poised to follow in her footsteps. Notably, Labubu has been spotted on celebrities such as Rihanna, Dua Lipa, and Lisa from Blackpink, who openly discussed her obsession with the character in Self-Image. This celebrity endorsement has undoubtedly fueled her global rise.
However, with widespread adoration comes controversy. In the UK, Pop Mart was forced to withdraw Labubu from stores after a violent altercation in a queue in May 2025. Overenthusiastic resellers resorted to aggression to secure these highly sought-after collectibles. Despite the backlash, the demand remains high-Labubu currently leads resale sales on platforms like StockX, where her value continues to soar.
Critics dismiss the craze as superficial or frivolous, questioning why adults-let alone teenagers-are queuing for toys in an era of economic uncertainty. Some argue that Labubu symbolizes a “recession indicator” or a symptom of “regression core,” feeding into consumerist trends that thrive on mimetic desire. As British Vogue writer Daniel Rodgers notes, “Labubu is just another fleeting internet sensation: a shiny object that captures attention for a few months before being replaced by the next big thing, igniting a fresh wave of thinkpieces.”
Yet, for dedicated fans around the world, Labubu transcends mere merchandise. To many, she embodies a lifestyle. For me, she’s a visual evolution of Maurice Sendak’s Where the Wild Things Are, evoking childhood innocence and simpler times. Pop Mart’s strategy of releasing Labubu in blind boxes-where the specific figure remains a surprise-adds an element of thrill to the collecting experience. Unboxing videos flood TikTok, showcasing the joy and pride in discovering one’s own unique Labubu. I personally own just one, but I am captivated by the superfans who tirelessly hunt for more, driven by the thrill of the unknown.
In light of the recent backlash, many Labubu enthusiasts have shared their personal stories with Vogue, posting heartfelt images of their plush companions emerging from blind boxes-testaments to the emotional connection they feel with these characters.
Freddie Powell, Art Dealer at Ginny on Frederick
Photography by Lewis Teague Wright
Having recently quit vaping, I replaced my habit with a growing collection of Pop Mart figures. I still wonder whether this is a healthier or more affordable obsession. My fascination began last September while organizing an exhibition in Seoul titled The Vampire Realm?. I was mesmerized by the intricate designs of tiny Crybaby vinyl figures-an obsession that has only deepened. The playful, quirky, and slightly macabre nature of collecting Labubu has completely taken over my interests.
Ruby Redstone, Cultural Commentator and Toy Enthusiast
Photography by Gabriel Sommer
My familiarity with toy collecting fandoms runs deep-during the golden age of Grotesque Dolls, Tokidoki, and Kidrobot, I was immersed in a world where toys reflected inner turmoil: a blend of cuteness and darkness, desire and loneliness. Tiny devils, born from random blind box draws, symbolized the duality of modern life. Who better than Labubu to embody this dichotomy? A female character-yes, a lady-with a growing online following and a mischievous streak, she perfectly captures the complexities of contemporary identity.
I appreciate the trend of adults attaching toys to their bags-an act I find endearing rather than unchic. It’s a form of silent expression, a way to carry a small source of comfort in public. As a cultural historian, I tend to avoid sweeping generalizations, but it’s clear that as societal chaos intensifies, so does the craving for adorable, tangible tokens of joy. After a particularly stressful week, I decided to indulge in Pop Mart. Amid discussions of societal dopamine dips and mental health, I believe that a tiny monster keychain is a harmless, even beneficial, form of escapism. Collecting toys introduced me to artists like Takashi Murakami and Yoshitomo Nara, making art accessible and personal for those who might not otherwise engage with traditional galleries.
Labubu and her ilk remind me of childhood-simple pleasures that serve as a reminder to my daughters that growing up doesn’t mean giving up what makes them happy. If something sparks their imagination, I encourage them to hold onto it. I did, and I cherish those memories.
Alex Kessler, Deputy Editor at i-D
Photography by Alex Kessler
There’s a strange, almost surreal feeling in falling into a luxury toy obsession while feeling emotionally adrift-jet-lagged, spiritually drained, and on the verge of a breakdown in Chiang Mai. Then I encountered Labubu. Something shifted inside me-an instant sense of relief. Suddenly, I was no longer just a person; I was a mother, cradling a bizarre little goblin with reverence akin to a Victorian widow at a séance. The thrill of unsealing a new figure? Pure serotonin rush, a gamble with lore. A friend joked it’s like playing, but with a darker twist-tinkering with myth and legend. I left Thailand with eight Labubus and CryBabys, ready to gift some to friends and editors in London. Is it frivolous? Maybe. But honestly, I haven’t felt this excited since microdosing at Dover Street Market’s sale.
Tune-I Saba, Creative Copywriter
Photography by Tune-I Saba
Blind boxes are the perfect gift for a generation that’s indecisive and emotionally cautious. My partner bought me a Labubu from a reseller in Warsaw, and my friend Jonny gifted me a Twinkle Twinkle for my 33rd birthday. Now, they serve as sentimental keepsakes. When the future feels uncertain, we turn to cuteness-Labubu is the ultimate gamble in the world of collectible capitalism.
Tianwei Zhang, Market Editor for Women’s Wear Daily (London/China)
Photography by Tianwei Zhang
I never imagined I’d become obsessed with Labubu. I was aware of her-saw the Thai princess Sirivannavari carrying one at a Hermès show-but I didn’t fully embrace the Pop Mart universe until late last year, when I researched her mythos. Early adopters like Bryanboy and Harry Lambert made it easy to find her in London before the craze exploded. I began collecting plush versions-standard, secret, regional exclusives like the Thai and Singapore editions, affectionately called Merbubu. Just this week, I managed to acquire a new “Duckbubu,” a limited plush only available in China through Pop Mart’s redemption system.
My collection also includes figurines-starting with the 400% Labubu Sketch and later a rare Hong Kong edition helped by a friend. Last year, I met Kasing Lung, the creator of Labubu, at Dover Street Market, where he signed a luxurious figurine for me. To me, Labubu embodies the perfect blend of cuteness, mischief, and exclusivity-qualities that resonate deeply with a vintage fashion enthusiast like myself.