Discovering Salina: Sicily’s Tranquil Gem with a Rich Character
Embark on a hydrofoil journey from Milazzo, Sicily, and in under two hours, you’ll arrive at the enchanting island of Salina. As you approach, the silhouette of Stromboli’s volcano looms on the distant horizon, offering a dramatic backdrop to this serene destination. Unlike the bustling streets of Sicily, Salina remains remarkably untouched by mass tourism, with locals zipping through the streets on mopeds and only a handful of visitors lounging at secluded sea coves along the roadside.
A Small Island with a Distinctive Charm
Despite being the second-largest island in the Aeolian archipelago-surpassed only by Lipari-Salina’s population hovers around 2,500 residents. This modest number makes it an ideal retreat for travelers seeking an authentic taste of Italian island life, characterized by unspoiled landscapes and a laid-back atmosphere.
Is Italy heading towards a tropical future? Recent trends reveal Sicilian farmers are increasingly swapping traditional olive groves for tropical crops like papayas, reflecting changing climates and economic shifts. This evolution hints at a future where Italy’s agricultural landscape could diversify significantly.
The Heart of Salina: An Intimate and Authentic Experience
“Salina feels like stepping into a romantic novel-its appeal isn’t rooted in grand attractions but in the understated beauty that gradually wins your affection,” explains Anita Motta, proprietor and director of the boutique hotel Principe di Salina. “It’s the greenest of the Aeolian Islands, boasting verdant hills, volcanic peaks, and breathtaking sea vistas that seem to stretch endlessly.”
Upon arriving at Santa Marina’s port-one of the island’s three main towns-you’ll find narrow streets lined with cafes, eateries, bars, and boutiques sourcing products from across Italy. The town’s centerpiece is its 18th-century church, distinguished by its yellow and white accents and bell towers, which adds to the town’s historic charm.
Motta emphasizes, “What makes Salina truly unique is its genuine authenticity. Here, you won’t encounter crowds or commercialized hotspots. Instead, you’ll find artisan wineries, caper farms, and welcoming locals who treat visitors like family. It’s a place to reconnect with nature, embrace slow living, and soak in the Mediterranean’s gentle rhythm.”
Activities and Sights: Embrace the Island’s Natural and Cultural Riches
Salina’s diverse regions invite exploration. Start your adventure in Malfa, a picturesque town dotted with boutique shops, eateries, and vineyards. Dine at In Sé Natura, perched atop a cliff with panoramic sea views, or indulge at the Michelin-starred Signum restaurant.
The island’s renowned vineyards produce Malvasia wine, available in both dry and sweet varieties, made from grapes cultivated on the volcanic soil. A stroll downhill from Malfa leads to Punta Scario Beach, a rocky cove where sunbathers can rent inflatable loungers from local vendors sitting at the foot of the steps.
Salina’s volcanic origins make it a paradise for wine enthusiasts. The northwest region features Pollara, a stunning bay formed by a collapsed volcanic crater, famously used as the filming location for the 1994 movie Il Postino. The island’s caper farms, such as Sapori Eoliani in Pollara, offer insights into the salty fruit’s harvest and culinary uses.
A short drive from Malfa, a World War I-era fort offers sweeping views of the coastline and spectacular sunsets-an experience that leaves a lasting impression, especially as the sky transforms into a canvas of vibrant colors over ancient volcanic cliffs.
In Rinella, the southwestern village, visitors can unwind on the black sand beach or savor local delicacies at Pa.Pe.Rò, renowned for its ricotta granita-a refreshing Sicilian shaved ice dessert infused with flavors. Further south, Lingua features a scenic promenade leading to a lighthouse, with charming cafes and the beloved family-run restaurant Da Alfredo, famous for its pane cunzato, a traditional Sicilian open-faced sandwich. The relaxed atmosphere here is perfect for watching locals and tourists alike enjoy the water while waiting for their meal.
Where to Stay: Comfort and Charm Amidst Natural Beauty
Salina offers a range of accommodations that blend comfort with authentic island charm. The Principe di Salina boutique hotel is perched on a cliffside, providing stunning views of the sea and Stromboli’s volcano. Managed by a husband-and-wife team-Anita and Filippo-the hotel exudes a relaxed, familial vibe. Guests are welcomed with open arms, enjoying amenities like a beautiful aquamarine pool, hammocks, and communal dining experiences where stories and local flavors are shared over long tables. Anita’s family history is deeply intertwined with the island, with her grandfather Alfredo having first arrived on Salina decades ago, a legacy she proudly continues.
Another notable option is Hotel I Cinque Balconi, conveniently located at the port of Santa Marina. This family-owned establishment, dating back to the 18th century, is famed for its five balconies overlooking the sea, offering a perfect starting or ending point for your island exploration. Its lush garden, filled with fig, pomegranate, and rose bushes, complements the historic architecture. The hotel’s restaurant, Casa Lo Schiavo, is celebrated for its open kitchen and authentic local dishes, making it a favorite among both visitors and residents.
In Summary
Salina stands out as a tranquil haven that combines natural beauty, cultural authenticity, and warm hospitality. Whether you’re wandering through vineyards, relaxing on volcanic beaches, or savoring traditional Sicilian cuisine, this island promises an enriching escape from the hustle and bustle of modern life. Its slow pace and genuine charm make it a must-visit destination for those seeking a true taste of Italy’s unspoiled island spirit.