Exploring Humanity’s Hidden Habitats: A Journey Through Underground and Cave Dwellings
Rediscovering Ancient and Modern Underground Living
Nearly ten years ago, renowned documentary photographer and National Geographic Explorer Tamara Merino embarked on an extraordinary journey through the blistering, arid landscape of Australia’s Simpson Desert. During her expedition, her camper van suffered a tire blowout in this vast, red-dusted wilderness-an area spanning approximately 70,000 square miles, characterized by extreme summer temperatures soaring into the 120s Fahrenheit and minimal water sources. As she navigated the desolate terrain, Merino noticed faint signs of civilization-an abandoned town with sparse, seemingly deserted structures. Climbing a hilltop, she discovered a simple metal cross overlooking a broad courtyard, revealing the hidden entrance to an underground Orthodox church, a testament to the enduring human connection with subterranean spaces.
The Subterranean Communities of Coober Pedy and Guadix
Merino’s exploration led her to the remote Australian town of Coober Pedy, a legendary hub for opal mining. After the discovery of opals in 1915, prospectors flocked to the region, and following World War I, returning soldiers joined the rush, opting to live in excavated hillside dwellings to escape the brutal daytime heat. Today, over 2,000 residents of Coober Pedy continue this tradition, with many homes and even churches carved directly into the earth. Merino spent a month immersed in this underground lifestyle, witnessing firsthand how the community’s deep-rooted bond with their environment sustains their way of life.
Similarly, in southern Spain’s Guadix, a community of more than 3,000 residents inhabits a landscape dotted with cave homes. These dwellings, once used by Moors fleeing religious persecution, have persisted for centuries. The hillside caves, some dating back hundreds of years, now serve as residences, shops, and cultural sites. Merino observed that these caves are not merely relics but living spaces, with modern amenities like plumbing and electricity integrated into the ancient structures. The residents’ adaptation exemplifies how ancient cave dwellings can meet contemporary needs while preserving historical traditions.
The Roots of Cave Living: An Ancient Human Heritage
The practice of dwelling in caves traces back millions of years, originating with early African ancestors seeking refuge in underground caverns. Over time, these natural shelters evolved into complex homes adorned with rock art and communal spaces. Merino’s visits to places like Coober Pedy and Guadix reveal that this ancient way of life still endures in select pockets around the world, serving as a powerful reminder of human ingenuity and resilience. Despite the decline in subterranean populations-once numbering in the tens of millions in China’s Shaanxi Province and Mali’s Bandiagara cliffs-the tradition persists in a few isolated communities.
Modern Challenges and Innovations in Underground Living
In the early 2000s, approximately 30 to 40 million people worldwide resided in underground dwellings, such as China’s yaodong homes. However, rapid urbanization and modernization have drastically reduced this number, with estimates dropping to around three million by 2010. Many communities have abandoned their subterranean homes altogether, seeking the comforts of aboveground living. Yet, some groups have found innovative ways to blend tradition with modernity. For instance, in Tunisia’s southern desert, the Imazighen (Berbers) have built cave homes into sandstone hillsides for centuries, providing natural insulation against the scorching heat. Despite government efforts to relocate them to modern housing, many residents prefer their ancient homes, which remain cooler and more sustainable amid rising global temperatures-projected to increase by up to 11.7°F by 2100.
Tunisia’s Cave Dwellers: A Tradition Under Threat
The Tunisian government’s push for modernization in the mid-20th century aimed to replace traditional cave dwellings with aboveground housing, promising amenities like running water and electricity. Many Imazighen, however, found these promises unfulfilled, leading to disillusionment and the gradual abandonment of their caves. Flooding and economic incentives prompted some residents to relocate to towns like New Matmata, where the community now features a main street lined with shops and cafes. Yet, the original cave homes-built to naturally regulate temperature-still hold cultural significance. As climate change accelerates, with temperatures rising sharply, the resilience of these ancient dwellings becomes even more vital.
Preserving a Way of Life in the Face of Change
Despite the allure of modern comforts, many Tunisians remain committed to their cave heritage. The Haamdi family, for example, continues to live in a cave in Beni Aïssa, blending traditional construction with contemporary touches like solar-powered lighting and limited internet access. Their home, accessible via an aboveground entrance, remains cool and comfortable, especially during the sweltering summer months. The family’s deep-rooted connection to their environment exemplifies how ancient practices can adapt to modern needs, ensuring their cultural legacy endures.
Petra’s Bedouin: Guardians of a Desert Fortress
In Jordan, the ancient city of Petra-carved into rose-red sandstone over 2,000 years ago-serves as a symbol of human ingenuity. While renowned for its archaeological marvels, Petra has also been home to Bedouin tribes for centuries. These nomadic communities, living amidst the ruins, have maintained a pastoral lifestyle, herding goats through the labyrinthine passageways and cultivating the surrounding slopes. In the 20th century, the Jordanian government initiated efforts to preserve Petra’s archaeological integrity by relocating the Bedouin to nearby villages, turning the site into a UNESCO World Heritage monument. Nonetheless, some tribe members still reside in caves and makeshift shelters in the surrounding valleys, holding onto their traditional way of life despite modernization pressures.
The Struggle Between Preservation and Progress
Many Bedouin residents, like Raya Hussein Suliman Semahin, now live in modest caves or simple dwellings in the outskirts of Petra. While some have embraced the new villages with basic amenities, others cling to their ancestral homes, valuing the freedom and connection to nature they provide. For example, young families often prefer the open air and natural surroundings over urban living, even as tourism transforms the region into a bustling tourist destination. The tension between cultural preservation and economic development remains palpable, with many residents expressing a desire to maintain their heritage.
The Last Bastions of Cave Life in Lesotho
In the Maloti Mountains of Lesotho, the cave at Ha Kome has historically served as a refuge during times of conflict. In the early 19th century, Chief Kome led his tribe into this strategic cave to escape violence sweeping across southern Africa. Constructed from mud, dung, and sticks, the cave provided shelter and safety for generations. Today, descendants of Kome still inhabit the area, with some living in traditional huts carved into the rock, while others have moved to nearby villages. The cave remains a symbol of resilience, offering shelter to those unable to afford modern housing.
A Cultural and Practical Legacy
The cave dwellings in Lesotho, known locally as mahalapane or “palate,” are simple yet functional. They lack electricity, running water, or windows but continue to serve as homes and safe havens for the community’s most vulnerable. Some residents, like Ntefane Ntefane, live in the caves out of necessity, while others, such as Sebastian Khuts’oane, have transitioned to village life but retain a deep attachment to their ancestral homes. These caves exemplify a sustainable way of living that has persisted through centuries of upheaval.
The Allure of Cappadocia’s Fairy Chimneys
In Turkey’s Cappadocia region, natural erosion has sculpted the landscape into a surreal tableau of cones, ridges, and underground cities. Human activity over the past 4,000 years has carved extensive networks of tunnels, churches, and homes into the soft volcanic rock. Notable sites like Kaymaklı and Derinkuyu extend several stories underground, capable of sheltering thousands of inhabitants. Today, these ancient dwellings have become a major tourist attraction, with many converted into boutique hotels, restaurants, and cultural centers.
Living in the Heart of History
Oktay and Hanife Torun have called their cave home in Ortahisar since their wedding four decades ago. Their residence, equipped with modern amenities, exemplifies how traditional cave dwellings can adapt to contemporary life. However, the booming tourism industry has begun to encroach upon their peaceful existence-neighbors sell their caves to developers, transforming the quiet village into a bustling hub. Despite this, some families, like the Toruns, remain committed to their subterranean homes, valuing the natural insulation and unique ambiance they provide.
The Future of Cave Communities
As tourism continues to grow in Cappadocia, many cave dwellers face a choice: adapt or relocate. Some, like the Torun family, consider selling their homes and moving to nearby towns with more modern conveniences. Others, like Hanife, cherish the authenticity and connection to history that their caves offer, preferring to stay despite the noise and dust of development. Their stories highlight the delicate balance between preserving cultural heritage and embracing progress.
Cave Ecosystems and Tourism’s Impact
The underground cities and caves of Cappadocia are not only historical marvels but also delicate ecosystems that thrive in darkness. Increasing tourist activity, however, poses risks to these environments, with light and foot traffic potentially damaging ancient structures and disrupting the natural balance. Experts warn that lighting and excessive visitation could threaten the preservation of these unique habitats, emphasizing the need for sustainable tourism practices.
In Summary:
From the ancient caves of Lesotho and Tunisia to the bustling underground cities of Cappadocia and the desert homes of Australia, subterranean and cave dwellings reveal a profound human history of adaptation, resilience, and cultural identity. While modern pressures threaten their survival, these communities continue to teach us valuable lessons about sustainability, ingenuity, and the enduring bond between humans and their environment. As climate change and tourism reshape these landscapes, the stories of these hidden habitats remind us of the importance of preserving our shared heritage for future generations.